Roger Dubuis, as Switzerland’s top watchmaking brand, has seen its achievements in the Interstellar Cutout King series in recent years. At the new product launch event of Roger Dubuis Pre-SIHH, Watch House also interviewed Mr. Gregory Bruttin, the director of research and development of Roger Dubuis movements, to listen to him and talk about the current Roger Dubuis Some views and future developments.
Watch House: You have always emphasized that this newly developed double balance spring skeleton watch is jointly developed with the Lamborghini Sports Department. I would like to know what aspects of research and development Lamborghini offers? Exterior design?
Gregory Bruttin: The main aspect is the movement. This movement is more like a Lamborghini sports car in terms of structure. We first set a general movement structure together, and then communicate in some details. For example, we use a differential in this movement, in fact, there is this thing in sports cars. We will communicate these details, including the selection of materials. Our cooperation with Lamborghini this time is not just in the movement, but in the entire watch. The case is made of carbon fiber, and Lamborghini is very advanced in carbon fiber research. We replaced the previously used carbon fiber material with a lighter carbon fiber material developed exclusively by Lamborghini.
Home of Watches: Why did you choose to develop a brand new double balance balance spring movement instead of the four balance balance spring movement that you are famous for before? Because if it comes to cars, it feels like the four balance wheels are more compatible with cars.
Gregory Bruttin: The four-balance hairspring movement has four balance wheels, so it is very bulky and very thick. The double balance spring only removes two balance wheels, and its structure and operating principle are the same. This new movement can be said to retain the principle of a four balance spring, making it thinner, smaller, and more suitable for daily wear.
Watch House: Is there any difficulty in developing this new movement?
Gregory Bruttin: For us, because we have a very strong movement research and development team, there is no difficulty in developing this movement. The difficulty this time is because we are cooperating with Lamborghini. Both sides have their own brand R & D philosophy and positioning, so they spend a lot of time in communication, persuading each other, and finally reaching an agreement.
Watch House: Will this movement only be used in cooperation with Lamborghini in the future?
Gregory Bruttin: Yes, this movement will only be used in cooperation with Lamborghini watches in the future. Because we hope that the cooperation with Lamborghini is not like the cooperation models of some brands on the market. You know, just the other party’s logo is printed on the product. Our more hope is that in the wearing experience, consumers can truly feel that our watch is a cooperative watch with Lamborghini, so we will spend a lot of time and energy on this movement.
Watch House: Two years ago, I interviewed you at the Hong Kong Watch Fair. When you said that many people mentioned Roger Dubuy would think of the Geneva mark of the whole movement. This is what you want, but then you also It is based on a consideration that a watch without the Geneva mark is launched.
Gregory Bruttin: We launched the non-Geneva-printed movement for one reason only, to meet the needs of the market. Because in many cases, when consumers, especially some female consumers, choose our brand, she cares more about design than the Geneva mark. So we only use this non-Geneva imprinted movement in our entry products, which is slightly inferior to the Geneva imprinted movement in surface finish.
Home of Watches: Now when mentioning Roger Dubuis, many people will think of not the Geneva mark of the whole movement, but the very dreamy design of the King Series Star Trellis. Is this what you want?
Gregory Bruttin: In fact, this is a real reflection of the market, which shows that our previous design and positioning of the interstellar hollow is very successful. I think that when a consumer buys a watch, he first sees whether the design of the watch is in line with his aesthetics. The second is the function, automatic winding, skeleton, single, double and so on. Finally, if this movement has the Geneva mark, it means that its quality is guaranteed and it is a very high-end movement.
Watch House: One last question, will you still be dominated by the King and the Famous in the future?
Gregory Bruttin: You know that we are a relatively small brand. The watches we produce each year are very limited. We are not as capable and have the budget to promote all series as the big brands, so we concentrate all our resources. And focus on the King series, in the next few years we will still focus on the King series, will be a new era of King series.
Recently, BVLGARI Bulgari is very proud to announce that Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, an actor and model with both beauty and talent, will be the latest Bulgari handbag and glasses accessories Image ambassador.
Bulgari accessories series image ambassador Rosie Huntington-Whiteley attends the Bulgari 2016 autumn and winter accessories series launch party
The announcement of the new image ambassador also coincides with the new product launch of the Bvlgari 2016 Milan autumn and winter accessories series. As the culmination of Bulgari’s Italian craftsmanship, the rich content of jewelry craftsmanship has given the SERPENTI and BVLGARI BVLGARI series a charming and bold style, and it also shows the eclectic spirit of adventure of the Bulgari brand. The new season accessories collection draws inspiration from colorful precious gems, and uses Bulgari’s famous luxury materials to create exquisite handmade products.
Bvlgari 2016 autumn and winter accessories series
The new accessories collection gloriously presents the Serpenti Forever series Bejewelled limited edition flip shoulder bag, which is inspired by a precious necklace made of rare Bulgari. Part of the Bulgari Collection, this renowned haute jewellery collection is now reborn as a classic accessory for handbags. A fashionable and gorgeous woman like Rosie is undoubtedly her perfect choice when choosing accessories.
Bvlgari Serpenti Forever Bejewelled Limited Flap Shoulder Bag
‘It is a great honour to be the ambassador of Bulgari’s new accessories series.’ Rosie’s excitement overflowed with words. ‘I like Bulgari’s deep Italian cultural connotation, and I appreciate its focus on Italian craftsmanship and history. When I wear a dazzling watch from Bulgari, put on exquisite earrings, or pair it with a hand-crafted handbag No matter what my style of clothing is, I can feel that these accessories add a seductive and elegant touch to it. I am also very excited to work with a creative brand like Bulgari this time. ‘
Rosie wears Bvlgari accessories at the Bvlgari Hotel during Milan Fashion Week 2016
I am very happy to share with you here a photo of Rosie, which records the wearing of Bulgari accessories at the Bulgari Hotel during the Milan Fashion Week 2016.
During this time, the Sino-US trade war made everyone look at our national brand Huawei. Regardless of 5G or mobile phones, Huawei has achieved world-leading performance. Under the cruel suppression of the ‘Golden Retriever’, Huawei not only resisted, but also achieved contrarian growth, which is very long for the Chinese people. One of the most important reasons why Huawei is so powerful is its long-term adherence to technological research and development and its mastery of many core technologies, including chips. In the watch and clock industry, core technology is also very important. The core technologies mentioned here include, but are not limited to, movements. The brand that masters the core technology is undoubtedly respected. They walk steadily and go a long way, even if they face the rough seas, they can handle them calmly. Therefore, for friends who have a small amount of money and want to buy 50,000 to 60,000 watches, personally suggest that it is best to choose those brands that have core technology, professional watch making, and strong strength. When choosing these brands, you are choosing a peace of mind. The Zunba calendar has a unique design and a powerful movement. Let’s look at Omega first. As the Swatch Group’s ‘head of the flower’, Omega’s performance in recent years has been remarkable. Not only have the movements been upgraded to precise and anti-magnetic coaxial coaxial movements, but they also often have breakthrough innovations in design. Among the major series of Omega, the constellation positioning is relatively high-end, and has repeatedly won the Observatory Award in history. The dial of the Constellation Supreme Calendar watch uses a unique ‘pie dial’ (commonly known as the gossip surface). This design is inspired by the antique Omega constellation and has undergone a new modern interpretation. The 12 divisions on the dial represent 12 months. This is not only a design-oriented and feature-rich watch, but also one of the big-name annual calendars with super high cost performance. We know that the calendar is usually designed according to the 31 days of a month, so it can be automatically recognized every big month, but in small months and February, ordinary calendars are out of service and can only be manually adjusted to the correct calendar. In addition to the need to manually adjust the calendar at the end of February every year, in other months, the watch can automatically identify the big and small months, without having to manually adjust. One of the innovations of this Zunba calendar is the use of hands to display the month, and most watches use a window format. The 12 time scales divide the dial into 12 equal parts, and these 12 equal parts also exactly represent 12 months. With the 3 o’clock calendar window, the month and calendar information can be seen at a glance. It is equipped with the METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology) certification of the 8922 Zhizhen Observatory movement, not only travel time difference of 0-5 seconds, but also can withstand 15,000 Gauss magnetic field. In other words, as long as you are on Earth, you don’t have to worry about your watch being magnetized. The reference price of the watch is 63,000 yuan. After talking about Omega, let’s look at the Blue Lion. Some friends of this brand may be unfamiliar, but as long as you say Grand Seiko, everyone will understand. The Blue Lion is the official Chinese name of Grand Seiko. The case of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive watch is polished by the abrasive grinding method. Someone confuses the crown blue lion with ordinary Seiko. It seems that spending tens of thousands to buy ‘Seiko’ is a bit worthless. In fact, in terms of brand positioning and technology, Guanlan Lion is completely incomparable with ordinary Seiko. Crown Blue Lion not only has its own separate watchmaking workshop, but also the production and polishing are done by experienced watchmakers. From the case, dial and pointer technology, as well as the accuracy of the travel time, the crown blue lion is not inferior to the Swiss watch at the same price. The watch recommended for everyone this time comes from the Crown Blue Lion ultra-thin fashion series, the model is SBGY003G, the reference price is 55,000 yuan. SBGY003G is an ultra-thin dress watch this year is the 20th anniversary of the advent of Seiko’s legendary movement Spring Drive. Guanlan Lions has launched a number of hand-wound ultra-thin Spring Drive watches, including SBGY003G. This is a very elegant dress watch, 38.5 mm in diameter, made of stainless steel, equipped with a 9R31 Spring Drive movement with a power reserve of 72 hours and a day difference of plus or minus one second. The Spring Drive movement combines the precision of a quartz movement with the beauty of a mechanical movement. It is the third movement in addition to the quartz movement. Its power source is still clockwork, but the escapement speed control device is replaced by a three-stage synchronous modulation speed controller. 9R31 Spring Drive movement The Spring Drive watch not only moves extremely accurately, but also can see the second hand slide smoothly across the dial, as if the ‘flow’ of time is realized. SBGY003G is full of strong Japanese aesthetics from the design to the movement polishing. Pursuing the watch’s own quality, friends who have higher requirements for travel time can pay attention. Speaking of 50,000 to 60,000 watches, after all, we have to talk about Rolex, this is a name that will never get around. In general, Rolex’s new models have become more expensive in recent years, and some watches are seriously out of stock. Even if you can get good luck, the actual starting price is far higher than the public price, such as Water Ghost and Daytona. Fortunately, not all Rolexes are so scarce. The log type 36 with the model 126234 is relatively easy to buy. Let’s take a look at Rolex’s new model, the 126234 log type 36. Its reference price is 64,000 yuan. Diary was born in 1945, is the first self-winding watch with a calendar window on the dial, can be called the ‘ancestor’ of the window calendar watch. At present, all Rolexes with calendars use advanced jump structures that can instantly switch calendars at midnight. 126234 diameter 36 mm, Oyster case with five-bead chain and dog ring, plus the 3 o’clock calendar, full of Rolex classic elements. The black dial has been polished with delicate radial patterns, and the details can be found in the real chapter. In terms of movement, it uses Rolex’s current main movement 3235. Compared with the old 3135 movement, not only the power reserve is increased from 48 hours to 70 hours, but also ball bearings are used to increase the durability of the movement. Rolex’s own Parachrom hairspring and Pafaflex shock absorbers ensure that the watch is fully protected against shock and time. If you don’t like the platinum dog ring, there is a reference price of 53400 yuan, and the aperture of 126200 can be selected. Zenith is a well-received technical school, with a high-frequency El Primero star-speed movement slamming the altar. Technically, Zenith is certainly good, but for a long time, its design was not very pleasing. However, in the last few years, many surprising changes have occurred in Zenith. On the one hand, we continue to make breakthroughs in technology, such as the movement with ultra-high frequency; on the other hand, we make great efforts in terms of appearance. Take the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph, for example. This is a watch that excels from the inside to the outside. It has both Zenith’s signature technology and good looks. In terms of appearance, the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph is retro-looking, with a diameter of 45 mm and a bronze case. The titanium case back is engraved with the Zenith flight instrument logo. The hands and Arabic numerals are covered with Super-LumiNova, which shows excellent results in dark environments. The Pilot Type 20 Chronograph crown and chronograph buttons are also worth mentioning. The huge onion crown is unique and flavorful. It integrates the flying elements well and can bring a lot of convenience for winding or adjusting. The timing buttons distributed on both sides of the crown are wider than common timing buttons, which can give the watch a better timing feel. The watch is equipped with Zenith’s self-produced high-frequency column wheel self-winding movement El Primero 4069. The column wheel is a petal-shaped gear, the production process is more complicated, and it can better control and coordinate the timing function. It is the standard configuration of advanced chronograph. The reference price of the watch is 59,800 yuan. Of course, in the price range of 50,000 to 60,000, the watches worth buying are far more than these. It is recommended to decide which watch to buy after getting started. In the end, I hope everyone can buy a watch that they like....
As a fashion trend, in addition to performance, watches are valued by many people. After all, people are very typical visual animals. They like beauty with men and women like handsome men Makes sense (yes, I like handsome guys). As the watchmaking industry’s pivotal watchmaking brand, Rolex’s popularity is presumably a lot of people can deeply appreciate when watching a commendation sigh that cannot be bought in the middle of the night. For Rolex, I want to say not only its classic shape, but also a part that cannot be ignored, the bracelet.
Rolex Bracelet and Oyster Bracelet
Different models of Rolex use different bracelets, which is also a very important sign to distinguish different models, coupled with the different aesthetics of each person, it will indirectly become an important reason for whether you enter the watch model.
Generally speaking, there are four different bracelets common to Rolex: the oyster bracelet, the heads bracelet, the PEARLMASTER bracelet, and the commemorative bracelet, also known as the five-bead chain.
Let me talk about the familiar Oyster bracelet. The oyster bracelet is long like this. As you can see, the bracelet has three large and slightly curved links, which is a classic Rolex design. Many watch friends say that the oyster bracelet looks more suitable for men’s toughness. The three generations of Rolex’s oyster bracelets have been continuously improved to become what we commonly see now, but the third generation of oyster bracelets were hollowed out at the beginning, and then replaced with solid The price has also changed.
Then we take a look at the heads of the bracelet. The head of the bracelet is also a three-grid chain link, but the link is semi-circular, and the oyster bracelet is different. In 1956, Rolex introduced the Day-Date watch, which uses the heads bracelet, and this bracelet is still in use today.
The heads-type bracelet is generally used on DD watches or diary-type precious metal ladies. However, Rolex later replaced the steel shaft of the original link with a ceramic shaft on the bracelet of the head. Everyone knows that the steel shaft will wear out after using it for a long time. After replacing the ceramic shaft, this problem is successfully solved, and the bracelet is also It won’t ‘collapse’.
The PEARLMASTER bracelet of the five-cell circular link is not mentioned, after all, it is relatively easy to identify and is used in women’s watches.
Today, the focus is on the commemorative bracelet, or the five-bead chain.
Rolex’s first diary
In 1945, Rolex’s first diary-type watch appeared. The five-bead chain was designed for this model. In fact, it is not difficult to find that Rolex was very creative in adjusting the details and increased the number of chain links. Decreased, bigger and smaller to change the style of the bracelet, but still full of Rolex flavor. The five-bead chain is equipped with five grid links. The three links in the middle are relatively small and the two sides are relatively wide.
Rolex blue and black circle GMT watch
Rolex red and blue circle GMT watch
Have you watched the new GMT Rolex at Baselworld this year? This year’s blue and black circle GMT watch uses a five-bead chain. The idea is moving forward. This is not the first time that Rolex has used a five-bead chain on a GMT model. In an antique Rolex GMT model and The previous blue-red circle GMT models also used five-bead chains. But I do n’t know if I noticed it? Greenwich II only uses five-bead chains on steel watches. The precious metal models also use oyster bracelets. To a certain extent, Rolex distinguishes steel watches from precious metal models through bracelets. .
In addition to the five-bead chain used in this year’s blue and black circle GMT models, the DATEJUST model is also more common. Previously, five-bead chains were often used on models with triangular pitted outer rings (but not to say that watches with pitted outer rings must be used on five-bead chains, isn’t it a bit of a mouthful?), Gradually Rolex put Five-bead chains are also used on watches without pits.
Tudor Biwan M79543-0002 watch
It is worth noting that the bracelet of Tudor has also changed this year. Rolex is the big brother of Tudor. Rolex used a five-bead chain this year, and Tudor also changed the bracelet. Take a look. Is it familiar? This Tudor strap is called a five-row chain link gold steel strap, which is also composed of five grid links. The middle link is made of polished steel, and the space between the two links is made of frosted gold. Different from Rolex’s five-bead chain in details, the three-chain link in the middle of the latter’s five-bead chain uses the same material. The previous Biduo model of Tudor was sporty. After changing the bracelet, it was more stylish. It is also a good choice to come to Tudor’s Biwan model this year. It is worth starting.
In the forum, many watch friends said that the gap between the straps would become larger and larger after wearing the five-bead chain for a long time. Rolex also improved this point by adding ceramics to the steel shaft in the middle of the link. This reduces the wear between the bracelets, and the bracelet is also equipped with Rolex’s patented oyster safety clasp and easy-to-adjust chain links, which are very delicate in comfort.
The Rolex five-bead chain is back again, and it is used in more and more models, it is expected that this will be a trend this year. (Picture / text watch home Wu Fengqi)...
Extreme craftsmanship and deep affection; Extraordinary creativity, engraving eternity-On the occasion of the romantic Valentine’s Day, the brilliant work of Swiss high-end watch brand Audemars Piguet-the new Royal Oak series women’s watch, integrating high-end The art of watchmaking and the inlay decoration technique are as dazzling as the starry sky, which is specially designed for her.
Star and heart
For the application of gem setting, it became an indispensable element when the women’s timepiece was born. The colorful gems and crystal clear diamonds not only have a decorative significance in shaping the style of timepieces, but also highlight the pragmatism of time display in the perfect combination with the bezel and dial. In the development of women’s timepieces, Audemars Piguet has innovatively interpreted the decoration: the new Royal Oak women’s watches feature a unique gem setting, and the swirling engraved diamond pattern extends from the dial and bezel to the strap , As if dazzling starry sky, pouring down the wrist. The case and dial are created with 541 brilliant-cut diamonds to create a glamorous visual effect. The swirling mosaic pattern seems to be randomly designed. In fact, each position has been carefully considered and perfectly integrated with the unique design of the Royal Oak series. The style, like the brush strokes of an abstract painter falling on the canvas, seems casual, but unique.
Royal Oak Women’s Watch, case and dial decorated with 541 brilliant-cut diamonds
The 33 mm diameter new Royal Oak women’s watch with 18K rose gold or white gold case shows the perfect fusion of superb craftsmanship, design innovation and elegance in a unique way. The new Royal Oak series women’s watch breaks the conventional setting of diamond inlay, and embellishes the free-form method with different positions on the case, bracelet and dial, which is full of freehand beauty.
Frost, World Warriors
The Royal Oak series Frosted Gold ‘Frost Gold’ watch can achieve the diamond-like decorative effect only by applying the century-old gold-plating technology to the case and bracelet without using diamond setting.
The Royal Oak Series ‘Frost Gold’ watch is compatible with the tradition of high-end jewellery craftsmanship. It is perfectly applied to the unique structure of the Royal Oak case and bracelet with the ancient gilt gold process (also known as the Florentine process), and strives to create brilliant white gold. Masterpiece with rose gold timepiece. The gilt process uses a tool with a diamond on the top to hit the surface of the gold, creating extremely fine notches, showing a brilliant effect like a diamond. The unique texture created by this elaborate and intricate craftsmanship makes the surface of the watch more dazzling in the light, like the starry sky at night.
The case and strap created by the hammer gold process highlight the unique preciousness with the bright sparkle
Not adding one point, not losing one cent, adds legendary masterpieces with fresh modern style. There is no gem, but it shines like a diamond. Eye-catching, unique and precious, belongs to her as ‘frost gold’.
For me, one of the most interesting features of the watch is the performance of the power reserve, because I really do n’t want the watch to be taken off for two days, but when I wear it again, I find that it has stopped. You have to readjust the time and manually wind it, which is very troublesome. In the past, because there are many brands and watches equipped with the ETA universal basic movement, the three most commonly used ETA movements have a 2824 power reserve of 38 hours, a 2892 power reserve of 42 hours, and a 7750 power reserve of 42 hours. , And Sellita, which is based on replicating ETA movements, has the same power products as its imitators SW200, SW300, and SW500. In fact, in the movement produced in the last century, whether it is Rolex 3135 movement power reserve for 48 hours, Patek Philippe’s 240 movement power reserve for 48 hours, basically no more than 2 days. So, how much power reserve should be considered unsatisfactory? I think it should be at least 3 days, or about 72 hours. The ideal situation is that when we get home from work on Friday, we take off the watch and wear it when we go out to work on Monday morning. At this time, the watch is still on time. Then from 8 pm on Friday to 8 am on Monday, then it will take at least 60 hours, plus the watch may not be fully chained when taken off, so 72 hours is a more secure design. With the ETA’s announcement that some of the movements will be discontinued from 2020, the watchmaking industry has set off a wave of ‘home-made movements’ in the past 10 years. We are pleasantly surprised to see the emergence of many new movements. There are bright performances. Of course, it also includes those brands that have made their own movements. Rolex and Tudor’s new calibre boosts power reserve to 70 hours In 2015, Rolex upgraded the movement of its iconic weekly watch from 3155 to 3255; the following year upgraded the watch movement from 3135 By 3235, the power reserve came to 70 hours. And its little brother Tudor also launched its first original movement MT5612 / 5621 certified by the Swiss official observatory in 2015 (MT stands for Manufacture Tudor, MT5621 has a power reserve indicator), and the power reserve has also reached 70 hours. In 2014, Glashütte originally launched the new integrated chronograph movement Calibre 37, with a power reserve upgraded to 80 hours. Two years later, a new calibre caliber 36 with a new three-handed automatic winding movement was introduced. Push up to 100 hours. When Zenith celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2015, Zenith will upgrade the Elite movement released in 1994 and launch the Elite 6150 movement. The power reserve will also reach 100 hours. Chanel J12 watch replaced with Caliber 12.1 caliber with 70-hour power reserve This year, the J12 of Chanel ushered in a change after 19 years of release. Instead of ETA movement, it replaced with Caliber 12.1 provided by Kenissi movement factory for power reserve. 70 hours and certified by the Swiss Observatory. Baume & Mercier also launched its self-produced movement Baumatic M12-1975 last year, which is mounted on the Crichton series Baumatic watch. In addition to being equipped with a silicon balance spring, escapement wheel and pallet fork, it can resist 1,500 Gauss magnetic fields and obtain the official Swiss Observatory certification It also has a 120-hour power reserve. The Baume & Mercier Baumatic watch has the best power reserve in 5 days. It is also ETA itself. In order to make the affordable affordable brand under the Swatch Group more competitive, ETA created the Calibre 80 movement, as the name implies. It has been stored for 80 hours, and even in the past two years, it has been equipped with a silicon hairspring. This movement is used by Tissot, Mido, Radar, Certina, and Hamilton, but the components on each component There will be slight differences in materials and sanding, and these differences will also appear in natural prices. All of these watches are equipped with a movement with an 80-hour power reserve. To increase the power reserve, the easiest way is naturally to make an article on the winding spring, because we know that the power of the watch comes from the clockwork. Longer and thicker, naturally can bring more power, but in the square inch space of the movement, it is not realistic to lengthen the spring indefinitely, although some movements will now be equipped with double barrels or even four Bars are driven in parallel or in series to drive the gear train, but this will inevitably increase the size and thickness of the watch, which is not pleasing to consumers who like thin and light watches. This is thinking of increasing the source of power, and there is another direction of thinking, which is to reduce the consumption of power. Therefore, the shape of the gears, the structure of the escapement and balance spring, the number of transmission parts, and even the air are reduced. Friction and resistance have become the focus of watchmakers’ thinking. In recent years, more and more brands have challenged Long Power, and they are not satisfied with the 3-day power. The 5-day chain, the 7-day chain, the 8-day chain, the 9-day chain, and the 10-day chain … let’s pick a few Come and enjoy. 5-Day Chain-Blancpain 50 噚 series 1315 movement is a movement specially developed for the 50 噚 series, with a 5-day power reserve. In this year’s 50mm series titanium version, a new choice of black disk and black circle was launched in addition to the original blue disk and blue circle. In addition, because the waterproof depth is 300 meters, and the inner case is equipped with antimagnetic soft iron, the previous stainless steel version of the movement is impervious to the bottom. However, as the hairspring was replaced with a silicon hairspring, it was not sensitive to magnetic fields, so the titanium model adopted a bottom design to show the beautiful 1315 movement. 7 Days Chain-Portuguese Automatic Automatic Watches, which are dull to watch fans, are called Portuguese Portuguese Automatic Watches with a 7-day power reserve, and ‘Dafei’ are the most classic and sought after brands series. The stainless steel case has a diameter of 42.3 millimeters, and its design is simple and stable, which is quite masculine. It is equipped with the self-produced 51011 self-winding movement and features the brand’s most unique automatic winding system. 8-day chain-Panerai Luminor 8-day 44 mm watch Since going on the road of self-made movement, Panerai’s movement has a 72-hour power reserve, whether it is automatic or manual. And this watch has a manual winding movement P5000 with a power reserve of up to 8 days. 44 mm stainless steel case, water-resistant to 300 meters. The reason for the long-term development is to reduce the need to wind the watch frequently and reduce the wear on the crown. 9th Chain-Chopard LUC Quattro Watch In 2011, Chopard launched the LUC Quattro watch. Quattro represents four-wheel drive in the automotive field, and in the field of watches, it refers to the movement with four barrels, which can also be a wrist. The watch provides up to 9 days of power. The new 2019 model is made of white gold, with a diameter of 43 mm. It is certified by the Geneva Seal and is limited to 50 pieces. Although it has 4 barrels, the great thing is that the thickness of the movement is controlled at 3.7 mm, and the thickness of the watch is only 8.84 mm, which is quite thin. Oris Artelier 111 self-moving watch from Oris in 2014. In celebration of the brand’s 110th anniversary, Oris launched its own Calibre 110 manual winding movement with a 10-day power reserve. Anniversary limited edition. The case is 43 mm in diameter and is available in rose gold and stainless steel, each limited to 110 pieces. The characteristic is ‘non-linear power reserve’. The energy interval on day 1-4 is wider than that on day 5-10. With this energy display, the wearer can see that the movement of the movement is different at different times. . This movement was later used in the Oris Artelier 111 automatic movement watch. In fact, the power reserve sometimes becomes the main battlefield of the brand ‘Hyunji’. Some watches with power that is ‘unbelievable’ always win a lot of attention. The Lange 31 watch has a power reserve of 744 hours, which is exactly 31 days, one month. That is to say, one month after taking off the watch, you still want to wear it. When Lange launched this watch in 2009, it really shocked everyone’s chin. To provide such a long time of power, the movement has two mainsprings of 1.85 meters long, which is 10 times that of ordinary mechanical watches. However, how can such a long mainspring be transmitted to the speed control mechanism in a gentle and stable manner? Faced with this problem, the brand’s countermeasure is to adopt a patented constant-power escapement system. In addition, winding is very time consuming and laborious, so the watch is key wound. Cartier ID2 concept table Cartier launched the ID One concept table in 2009. After three years, it released the ID Two concept table again. ID is the abbreviation of Innovation and Development, which represents the future of watchmaking innovation and development. attempt. ID One emphasizes ‘no need to adjust and lubricate’, ID Two emphasizes ‘increased energy storage and reduced energy consumption’. To store energy, start by changing the material and structure of the mainspring. To reduce energy consumption, start by changing the material and structure of the transmission gear system and speed control oscillation system. The final killer is ‘vacuum’, which is removed from the case. 99.8% air allows the balance spring to run with almost zero air friction. Finally, without increasing the case size, the watch’s power reserve reached an amazing 32 days. Why it is 32 days, probably just want to break the record maintained by Lange! Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari watch However, Cartier’s record has not been maintained for too long. At the Baselworld 2013, Blancpain’s MP-05 LaFerrari watch was born, and the power reserve reached 50 days! The watch has a narrow front and a wide back, just like a Ferrari sports car. The transparent table mirror is the sunroof of the car. The 11 serial barrels on the movement are super powerful engines. The top left roller of the barrel is the power reserve indicator, the top right roller is the hour and minute display, and a vertical tourbillon is hung at 6 o’clock below. The case is titanium, coated with a black PVD coating, and later a transparent version of the case was created with sapphire crystal. Similarly, it is difficult to wind up such a mainspring by hand, so the winding must use the included special power tool. Vacheron Constantin’s inherited series of dual-core rate perpetual calendar watches This year’s ‘Twin Beat’ introduced by Vacheron Constantin brings a new idea. To solve the trouble of readjusting the calendar after the long-term calendar watch is not worn, This is much more difficult than simply adjusting the time. The watch has two vibration frequencies, one is 5 Hz and is used for 4 days with a power reserve; the other is 1.2 Hz (8,640 vibrations per hour and 2.4 vibrations per second) for use when not being worn. This has high vibration frequency accuracy when worn, and allows the movement to run at low speed when not worn, extending the power reserve to 65 days. In other words, if the watch is not worn, pick it up after two months. The calendar display of the upper perpetual calendar is still correct. This is similar to the standby or hibernation mode of digital products, but it can really make the perpetual calendar owners less worried. . Parmigiani’s Senfine project movement Finally, mentioning Parmigiani’s experimental Senfine project, the brand announced this research plan at the 2016 Geneva watch exhibition. Senfine means “eternity” in Esperanto. The new movement developed by the project uses a large amount of silicon material, and uses non-traditional escapements and speed regulation mechanisms. The flexible elasticity of silicon thin sheets is used to completely reduce air resistance and components Friction to reduce energy consumption. At that time, it could bring a 90-day power reserve to the movement, and this was still in the experimental stage. The ultimate goal was to reach 6 months or even longer. However, 3 years have passed, and the results of the final experiment have not yet appeared. I wonder if any bottlenecks have been encountered, and we can only continue to wait. This article contains a large number of original pictures, some of which are from the brand or the Internet. Anyone may not use them without permission. Please contact us for permission to reprint....
Recently, Audemars Piguet, a Swiss fine watch brand, has harvested a number of Audemars Piguet antique timepieces collected by the famous collector Marcus Margulies in 27 years. Marcus Margulies is the owner of the eponymous watch shop on Bond Street, London, England. His collection of Audemars Piguet watches dates from the 1890s to the 1990s, and includes many extremely rare models and complication pocket watches, including orphan calendar watches with moon phases, world time watches, Chronographs, as well as rare chronographs and chronographs.
‘Universelle’ super complicated pocket watch
The Marcus Margulies collection includes a world-famous ‘Universelle’ pocket watch with superb functionality, No. 6142. This pocket watch was originally produced by the master watchmaker Louis Elisée Piguet, followed by the production and assembly of complex functional parts by Audemars Piguet, and the finished movement was sent to Union Glashütte in Dresden in 1899. Case assembly, dial signing and sale. This pocket watch was one of the most complicated timepieces at the time, including 1,168 movement components, features including perpetual calendar, Zhongle minute repeater, big self-sounding, small self-sounding, double-second chase, 1/5 second accuracy Timekeeping and reset system, skip seconds, and alarm time. This superbly complex timepiece that brings together fine watchmaking craftsmanship and aesthetic design will become the core exhibit of the Audemars Piguet Museum.
In 2015, Audemars Piguet made a lot of achievements in the auction market, harvesting a number of rare and complex timepieces. It has extremely important value and significance for the Audemars Piguet museum to display and maintain advanced watchmaking techniques and heritage. In the auction season that began in Geneva in May 2016, Audemars Piguet continues to pay attention to the heritage of antique timepieces.
Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater, 1951, 18K Yellow Gold Case
Audemars Piguet chronograph, rose gold / stainless steel case, 1941
Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch, 1922, Platinum / Gold Case
Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Watch, made in 1957, 18K yellow gold case
At Christie’s Geneva auction on May 11, 2015, Audemars Piguet successfully auctioned a minute repeater watch (Ref. 5528/1063) made in 1951, using an 18K gold watch with a diameter of 38 mm Shell (Figure 1). According to Audemars Piguet’s historical archives, this watch is made of only one, making it a well-deserved orphan timepiece.
Since the brand was founded in 1875, the minute repeater function has been one of Audemars Piguet’s most iconic expertise. The minute repeater auction at Ref. 5528/1063 is valued at 150,000 – 250,000 Swiss francs. After many auctions, it was finally sold for 605,000 Swiss francs, setting a record price for Audemars Piguet watches at auction.
At the Phillips Geneva auction on November 8, 2015, Audemars Piguet successfully acquired a chronograph made in 1941. This orphan watch has an impeccable look, a rose gold and stainless steel case with a champagne dial, period drops and oval chronograph buttons (Figure 2). The auction of this chronograph was valued at 100,000 – 150,000 Swiss francs, attracting many bidders around the world, and it eventually fell to 305,000 Swiss francs.
In the Sotheby’s New York auction on December 10, 2015, an Audemars Piguet watch that was once owned by the President of the United States was highly sought after at the auction and was eventually sold for Audemars Piguet. This pillow-shaped perpetual calendar pocket watch made in 1922 is made of platinum and gold and was given to the 34th President of the United States Dwight David Eisenhower in 1954 (Figure 3). The pocket watch was valued at $ 20,000-30,000 at auction and eventually sold for $ 45,000.
In addition to Audemars Piguet’s successful antique timepieces, a number of Audemars Piguet timepieces were purchased by private buyers. The most representative number Ref. 5516 is presented at Christie’s New York auction on December 16, 2015. A total of 9 watches produced in 1957 were the first watches in the history of horology to have a leap year display (Figure 4). The auction value was 150,000-300,000 US dollars, and the drop hammer price was as high as 545,000 US dollars. Auction record of his perpetual calendar watch.
The spring auction of 2016 has been fully launched, and many well-known auction houses are about to present more collectible Audemars Piguet antique timepieces.
The Breguet Type XXII series is a new generation of chronographs re-interpreted and commemorated by modern technology in commemoration of the first generation of Type XX series designed by the Great French Navy Aviation in 1960. This watch introduced to you today uses noble rose gold, which shows that it takes into account the characteristics of both appearance and technology, and the excellent combination makes it gorgeous and stable.
Breguet Type XXII 3880 rose gold chronograph
This watch is equipped with a caliber 589F self-winding movement with a vibration frequency of up to 10 Hz, vibrating 72,000 times per hour, allowing the central chronograph chronograph second hand to complete a rotation in 30 seconds, which relatively improves the accuracy of the timekeeping. 27 jewels, 40-hour power reserve, with hours, minutes, seconds, date, flyback timing and second time zone display; in addition, the high-frequency silicon escapement and silicon flat spring equipped with the movement are made of silicon. The feature that does not require lubricant and does not cause wear and tear, provides a wider vibration frequency space for the escapement mechanism; 18K rose gold case, 44 mm in diameter, the ring is grooved, and the bidirectional rotating bezel is engraved for 60 minutes Scale, rose gold screw-down crown, water-resistant to 100 meters; brown dial, hands and hour markers covered with fluorescent paint, no fear of reading in dim environments; recessed 30-minute timer at 9 o’clock, 3 o’clock The clock position is 12 hours and the second time zone is at 6 o’clock. A brown leather strap with red and white stitching complements the brown dial.
Such an extraordinary yet stable design is very suitable for men who love watches.
Love is like the process of turning cocoons into butterflies. Time is the only testimony. The process of each period of love may be different. The belief in love in your heart makes everything you experience a different landscape on the way to love, and the moment when you achieve positive results is the warmest and sweetest. Time is like flowing water. We cannot stay in time, but time can witness the most precious memories of love in our hearts. Valentine’s Day is not just a simple gift-giving and mutual love, but also to let us remember the meaning of the purest love that this special day has been given by Saint Valentine. Bucherer presents timepieces to all those in love on this Valentine’s Day. Whether it is simple and simple or high-profile fierce love, you can record the purest appearance for each other in your hands.
The Bucherer Adamavi watch the pure love
The Prestige Qilai Adamavi series of watches contains a timeless style and the brand’s unique philosophy. The word Adamavi is derived from Latin and means ‘to love something’. All the watches in the Edmar collection are timeless, with a simple design and outstanding mechanical functions. The pleasing visual aesthetics are not limited by the ephemeral trend. 39mm and 28mm diameter case with blue dial, simple big three hands and date display, all show the watch’s stylish atmosphere. The moral of the series name is also the best interpretation of love for each other.
Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral
Praise Valentine’s Day with Pathos Diva rose gold watch
Compared with the simple and fashionable Edelmar watch, the brilliance of the Maliron double-circle tourbillon watch and the white diamond Dihua rose gold watch complement each other, reflecting the noble luxury of each other. The Maliron Tourbillon Double-Ring Tourbillon is the symbol of the best watchmaking technology from Bucherer. The watch is equipped with a self-made new CFBT3000 movement, and the flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock reveals the top craftsmanship of the watch. The simple and soft lines of the case, the delicate wedge-shaped hour-markers on the dial and the pointed sword-shaped faceted hands are all the exclusive styles of the Marion series. Similarly, the Bettich Emperor rose gold watch is equipped with a 38-hour power reserve CFB1963 self-winding movement, the case outer ring is set with 54 TWvvs diamonds, the rose gold bracelet and the case are in one go. These two watches embody the accomplishments of Bucherer in movement technology and gemstone technology. They are like two people who complement each other in love to create an eternal story that belongs to each other....
Tag Heuer Touring Exhibition (Shanghai Station) Celebrates 55th Anniversary Of Carrera Carrera Series
[June 1, 2018, Shanghai] Today, TAG Heuer started a journey of time at its flagship store in Nanjing West Road, Shanghai-Museum in Motion exhibition. The precious collections for display include not only the timepieces hidden in the Tag Heuer La Chaux-de-Fonds Museum, but also the personal treasures of collectors. These timepieces left the La Chaux-de-Fonds Museum for the first time as a group of works for public exhibition. The tour started in Beijing, passed through Xi’an, and finally landed in Shanghai. Among them, May 30 to June 17, Shanghai Station, waiting for tasting.
TAG Heuer Vintage Watch Shanghai Tour
The timepieces presented in the exhibition reflect the rich history of TAG Heuer’s watchmaking, and they also highlight the pioneering spirit of TAG Heuer’s continuous innovation, especially in motorsport events. Important models include: Carrera, born in 1969; Autavia, commemorating the Tag Heuer brand ambassador and Swiss racer Joe Seefeldt; equipped with the world’s first self-winding chronograph movement with a mini rotor The Calibre 11 Monaco watch is also the first chronograph with a square case and many other antique timepieces.
Mr. Yu Xiaoliang, General Manager of Tag Heuer Greater China, said: We are very pleased to be able to bring the history of Tag Heuer and the Museum in Motion exhibition to China. This year is also the 55th anniversary of TAG Heuer’s iconic Calera collection, and we are honored to take this opportunity to share our most iconic timepieces with consumers and watch lovers in China.
This exhibition not only allows consumers and watch enthusiasts to enjoy unique antique watches, but also understands the history of brand watchmaking, and also allows consumers to recognize the importance of Tag Heuer in the field of motor racing.
The exhibition information is as follows:
Address: No. 1033-1037, Nanjing West Road, Jing’an District, Shanghai