The Hermès boutique in Faubourg Saint-Honoré, in the heart of Paris, has been selected as the launch location for its new watch. This new product will mark the official entry of Hermes into the world of high-end watchmaking. The unique name of this watch, Arceau Lift, is enough to explain why Hermès chose this store instead of BaselWorld to host such a major launch event. This is because the new design inspiration is completely derived from an experience of product manager Philippe Delhotal visiting this store.
Arceau Lift marks the beginning of a new direction for Hermes.
In this 3,000-square-meter luxury fort, Delhotal found an intertwined double H pattern in the main elevator. It symbolizes the union of the Hermès and Hollande families after the company’s grandson Emile Hermès married Julie Hollande. Philippe Delhotal chose to use this logo as the basis for the design of this new flying tourbillon, using the Arceau case and a new movement designed and produced by La Joux-Perret for Hermès.
Hermès CEO Luc Perramond told Europa Star that the watch is the brand’s second tourbillon series and the first flying tourbillon. ‘In 2010, we produced a tourbillon watch in the Cape Cod series using a Vaucher Manufacture tourbillon movement,’ he recalls, ‘but this time we wanted to design a flying tourbillon. Because we always seek The best craftsmen, and La Joux-Perret has international expertise in the production of tourbillons, especially flying tourbillons, and we decided to work with them. ‘
Arceau Lift marks the beginning of a new direction for Hermes. The calm design of high-end watchmaking just complements the blanks beyond the exquisite craftsmanship of straw inlay styles. ‘This will be another design using what I call ‘traditional complication’,’ explained Mr. Perramond, ‘here I mean those processes that are well known and provide good technical performance. We need to develop a wider range of products , And of course you ca n’t forget the original spirit of the “pause time” watch. ”
Hermès Arceau Lift
The 43 mm diameter Arceau rose gold case, with asymmetrical lug pins, is structured to highlight the apparent weightlessness of the flying tourbillon. The space below the blue crystal is mainly occupied by a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock and a clockwork lid at 12 o’clock. Both share the double H design of the famous elevator in the Hermes store in Paris. Another component is the manually wound H1923 movement developed by La Joux-Perret specifically for Hermès, hidden behind a bridge across the 3 and 9 o’clock positions. The vibration frequency of the movement is 3 Hz, and the power reserve is 90 hours when fully wound. All surfaces of the watch are chamfered and polished by hand, and the screws are also polished. The back of the tourbillon can be seen through the blue crystal hole at the 6 o’clock position on the back of the case. The ring is engraved with the graphic of Hermès ex libris. Arceau Lift paired with a matt Havana crocodile leather strap made by Hermès Watch Workshop demonstrates the brand’s long tradition as a leather goods manufacturer.
At first glance, what is striking is the flying tourbillon’s eye-catching structure. The dial’s central gear cross bridge divides the watch into two parts, the upper part is the dominant dial, and the lower part is the flying tourbillon. flywheel. But when you look at it for the second time, you will find that the designer and watchmaker’s six months of hard work is worth the money: from the discreetly carved V-shaped pattern on the dial background to the chamfered surface (chamfered The process takes 40 hours) and the contrasting brushed and polished surfaces show attention to detail. Details permeate the entire watch design into the movement design, not the other way around.
Luc Perramond acknowledges that Arceau Lift to some extent meets the needs of ‘hermès loyal customers exploring watchmaking’. Not surprisingly, this watch will only be sold in the brand’s own stores. There are only 176 watches in 340 stores (this number echoes the brand’s age). Limited edition watches are on sale, and it is clear that the supply is far from enough. The price of 155,000 Swiss francs may slightly ease demand, but one day before the launch, a customer bought a pocket watch for 250,000 Swiss francs at the ‘Timepieces of Exception’ exhibition in its Paris store.
The development period of the H1923 movement of the Arceau Lift watch (the elevator was installed in this store in 1923) lasted for 18 months, and there was also a huge investment in industrialization. These can not rely on Arceau Lift’s 176 limited timepiece cover the cost. Therefore, Arceau Lift is only the first watch and will evolve into a multi-member tourbillon family in the future.
In addition, we can also look forward to seeing more innovation from Hermès at BaselWorld in 2014. As Luc Perramond revealed: ‘This is a legend that I want to continue. Not only are there a lot of possibilities, but also ideas and technical challenges. At the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show, we will show a complex device, While continuing the spirit of Temps Suspendu, there will be a new form of interaction with watch wearers. ‘
There are always customers waiting in line at the Hermès store. Instead of coming for shopping, they are more likely to receive service. This amazing scene is enough to prove that Luc Perramond claims ‘business is good’, and the 10% sales growth in 2013 is also strong evidence. Unlike some competitors, Hermès’ customer base is not just Chinese. ‘We have historically been strong in the Japanese and European markets,’ said Mr. Perramond. ‘We are still developing the Chinese and North American markets recently.’ Uncertainty that does not need to rely on mainland Chinese customers and the Chinese economy is something for Hermes Good thing, but perhaps more importantly, the bright prospects of the watch market more herald a brighter future for Hermes.