Month: March 2011

What The Hell? Why Did The Watch Stop Again?

For me, one of the most interesting features of the watch is the performance of the power reserve, because I really do n’t want the watch to be taken off for two days, but when I wear it again, I find that it has stopped. You have to readjust the time and manually wind it, which is very troublesome. In the past, because there are many brands and watches equipped with the ETA universal basic movement, the three most commonly used ETA movements have a 2824 power reserve of 38 hours, a 2892 power reserve of 42 hours, and a 7750 power reserve of 42 hours. , And Sellita, which is based on replicating ETA movements, has the same power products as its imitators SW200, SW300, and SW500. In fact, in the movement produced in the last century, whether it is Rolex 3135 movement power reserve for 48 hours, Patek Philippe’s 240 movement power reserve for 48 hours, basically no more than 2 days. So, how much power reserve should be considered unsatisfactory? I think it should be at least 3 days, or about 72 hours. The ideal situation is that when we get home from work on Friday, we take off the watch and wear it when we go out to work on Monday morning. At this time, the watch is still on time. Then from 8 pm on Friday to 8 am on Monday, then it will take at least 60 hours, plus the watch may not be fully chained when taken off, so 72 hours is a more secure design. With the ETA’s announcement that some of the movements will be discontinued from 2020, the watchmaking industry has set off a wave of ‘home-made movements’ in the past 10 years. We are pleasantly surprised to see the emergence of many new movements. There are bright performances. Of course, it also includes those brands that have made their own movements. Rolex and Tudor’s new calibre boosts power reserve to 70 hours In 2015, Rolex upgraded the movement of its iconic weekly watch from 3155 to 3255; the following year upgraded the watch movement from 3135 By 3235, the power reserve came to 70 hours. And its little brother Tudor also launched its first original movement MT5612 / 5621 certified by the Swiss official observatory in 2015 (MT stands for Manufacture Tudor, MT5621 has a power reserve indicator), and the power reserve has also reached 70 hours. In 2014, Glashütte originally launched the new integrated chronograph movement Calibre 37, with a power reserve upgraded to 80 hours. Two years later, a new calibre caliber 36 with a new three-handed automatic winding movement was introduced. Push up to 100 hours. When Zenith celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2015, Zenith will upgrade the Elite movement released in 1994 and launch the Elite 6150 movement. The power reserve will also reach 100 hours. Chanel J12 watch replaced with Caliber 12.1 caliber with 70-hour power reserve This year, the J12 of Chanel ushered in a change after 19 years of release. Instead of ETA movement, it replaced with Caliber 12.1 provided by Kenissi movement factory for power reserve. 70 hours and certified by the Swiss Observatory. Baume & Mercier also launched its self-produced movement Baumatic M12-1975 last year, which is mounted on the Crichton series Baumatic watch. In addition to being equipped with a silicon balance spring, escapement wheel and pallet fork, it can resist 1,500 Gauss magnetic fields and obtain the official Swiss Observatory certification It also has a 120-hour power reserve. The Baume & Mercier Baumatic watch has the best power reserve in 5 days. It is also ETA itself. In order to make the affordable affordable brand under the Swatch Group more competitive, ETA created the Calibre 80 movement, as the name implies. It has been stored for 80 hours, and even in the past two years, it has been equipped with a silicon hairspring. This movement is used by Tissot, Mido, Radar, Certina, and Hamilton, but the components on each component There will be slight differences in materials and sanding, and these differences will also appear in natural prices. All of these watches are equipped with a movement with an 80-hour power reserve. To increase the power reserve, the easiest way is naturally to make an article on the winding spring, because we know that the power of the watch comes from the clockwork. Longer and thicker, naturally can bring more power, but in the square inch space of the movement, it is not realistic to lengthen the spring indefinitely, although some movements will now be equipped with double barrels or even four Bars are driven in parallel or in series to drive the gear train, but this will inevitably increase the size and thickness of the watch, which is not pleasing to consumers who like thin and light watches. This is thinking of increasing the source of power, and there is another direction of thinking, which is to reduce the consumption of power. Therefore, the shape of the gears, the structure of the escapement and balance spring, the number of transmission parts, and even the air are reduced. Friction and resistance have become the focus of watchmakers’ thinking. In recent years, more and more brands have challenged Long Power, and they are not satisfied with the 3-day power. The 5-day chain, the 7-day chain, the 8-day chain, the 9-day chain, and the 10-day chain … let’s pick a few Come and enjoy. 5-Day Chain-Blancpain 50 噚 series 1315 movement is a movement specially developed for the 50 噚 series, with a 5-day power reserve. In this year’s 50mm series titanium version, a new choice of black disk and black circle was launched in addition to the original blue disk and blue circle. In addition, because the waterproof depth is 300 meters, and the inner case is equipped with antimagnetic soft iron, the previous stainless steel version of the movement is impervious to the bottom. However, as the hairspring was replaced with a silicon hairspring, it was not sensitive to magnetic fields, so the titanium model adopted a bottom design to show the beautiful 1315 movement. 7 Days Chain-Portuguese Automatic Automatic Watches, which are dull to watch fans, are called Portuguese Portuguese Automatic Watches with a 7-day power reserve, and ‘Dafei’ are the most classic and sought after brands series. The stainless steel case has a diameter of 42.3 millimeters, and its design is simple and stable, which is quite masculine. It is equipped with the self-produced 51011 self-winding movement and features the brand’s most unique automatic winding system. 8-day chain-Panerai Luminor 8-day 44 mm watch Since going on the road of self-made movement, Panerai’s movement has a 72-hour power reserve, whether it is automatic or manual. And this watch has a manual winding movement P5000 with a power reserve of up to 8 days. 44 mm stainless steel case, water-resistant to 300 meters. The reason for the long-term development is to reduce the need to wind the watch frequently and reduce the wear on the crown. 9th Chain-Chopard LUC Quattro Watch In 2011, Chopard launched the LUC Quattro watch. Quattro represents four-wheel drive in the automotive field, and in the field of watches, it refers to the movement with four barrels, which can also be a wrist. The watch provides up to 9 days of power. The new 2019 model is made of white gold, with a diameter of 43 mm. It is certified by the Geneva Seal and is limited to 50 pieces. Although it has 4 barrels, the great thing is that the thickness of the movement is controlled at 3.7 mm, and the thickness of the watch is only 8.84 mm, which is quite thin. Oris Artelier 111 self-moving watch from Oris in 2014. In celebration of the brand’s 110th anniversary, Oris launched its own Calibre 110 manual winding movement with a 10-day power reserve. Anniversary limited edition. The case is 43 mm in diameter and is available in rose gold and stainless steel, each limited to 110 pieces. The characteristic is ‘non-linear power reserve’. The energy interval on day 1-4 is wider than that on day 5-10. With this energy display, the wearer can see that the movement of the movement is different at different times. . This movement was later used in the Oris Artelier 111 automatic movement watch. In fact, the power reserve sometimes becomes the main battlefield of the brand ‘Hyunji’. Some watches with power that is ‘unbelievable’ always win a lot of attention. The Lange 31 watch has a power reserve of 744 hours, which is exactly 31 days, one month. That is to say, one month after taking off the watch, you still want to wear it. When Lange launched this watch in 2009, it really shocked everyone’s chin. To provide such a long time of power, the movement has two mainsprings of 1.85 meters long, which is 10 times that of ordinary mechanical watches. However, how can such a long mainspring be transmitted to the speed control mechanism in a gentle and stable manner? Faced with this problem, the brand’s countermeasure is to adopt a patented constant-power escapement system. In addition, winding is very time consuming and laborious, so the watch is key wound. Cartier ID2 concept table Cartier launched the ID One concept table in 2009. After three years, it released the ID Two concept table again. ID is the abbreviation of Innovation and Development, which represents the future of watchmaking innovation and development. attempt. ID One emphasizes ‘no need to adjust and lubricate’, ID Two emphasizes ‘increased energy storage and reduced energy consumption’. To store energy, start by changing the material and structure of the mainspring. To reduce energy consumption, start by changing the material and structure of the transmission gear system and speed control oscillation system. The final killer is ‘vacuum’, which is removed from the case. 99.8% air allows the balance spring to run with almost zero air friction. Finally, without increasing the case size, the watch’s power reserve reached an amazing 32 days. Why it is 32 days, probably just want to break the record maintained by Lange! Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari watch However, Cartier’s record has not been maintained for too long. At the Baselworld 2013, Blancpain’s MP-05 LaFerrari watch was born, and the power reserve reached 50 days! The watch has a narrow front and a wide back, just like a Ferrari sports car. The transparent table mirror is the sunroof of the car. The 11 serial barrels on the movement are super powerful engines. The top left roller of the barrel is the power reserve indicator, the top right roller is the hour and minute display, and a vertical tourbillon is hung at 6 o’clock below. The case is titanium, coated with a black PVD coating, and later a transparent version of the case was created with sapphire crystal. Similarly, it is difficult to wind up such a mainspring by hand, so the winding must use the included special power tool. Vacheron Constantin’s inherited series of dual-core rate perpetual calendar watches This year’s ‘Twin Beat’ introduced by Vacheron Constantin brings a new idea. To solve the trouble of readjusting the calendar after the long-term calendar watch is not worn, This is much more difficult than simply adjusting the time. The watch has two vibration frequencies, one is 5 Hz and is used for 4 days with a power reserve; the other is 1.2 Hz (8,640 vibrations per hour and 2.4 vibrations per second) for use when not being worn. This has high vibration frequency accuracy when worn, and allows the movement to run at low speed when not worn, extending the power reserve to 65 days. In other words, if the watch is not worn, pick it up after two months. The calendar display of the upper perpetual calendar is still correct. This is similar to the standby or hibernation mode of digital products, but it can really make the perpetual calendar owners less worried. . Parmigiani’s Senfine project movement Finally, mentioning Parmigiani’s experimental Senfine project, the brand announced this research plan at the 2016 Geneva watch exhibition. Senfine means “eternity” in Esperanto. The new movement developed by the project uses a large amount of silicon material, and uses non-traditional escapements and speed regulation mechanisms. The flexible elasticity of silicon thin sheets is used to completely reduce air resistance and components Friction to reduce energy consumption. At that time, it could bring a 90-day power reserve to the movement, and this was still in the experimental stage. The ultimate goal was to reach 6 months or even longer. However, 3 years have passed, and the results of the final experiment have not yet appeared. I wonder if any bottlenecks have been encountered, and we can only continue to wait. This article contains a large number of original pictures, some of which are from the brand or the Internet. Anyone may not use them without permission. Please contact us for permission to reprint.


Audemars Piguet Antique Timepieces 2015 Repeated Auction Records Looking Forward To 2016 春 拍 经典

Recently, Audemars Piguet, a Swiss fine watch brand, has harvested a number of Audemars Piguet antique timepieces collected by the famous collector Marcus Margulies in 27 years. Marcus Margulies is the owner of the eponymous watch shop on Bond Street, London, England. His collection of Audemars Piguet watches dates from the 1890s to the 1990s, and includes many extremely rare models and complication pocket watches, including orphan calendar watches with moon phases, world time watches, Chronographs, as well as rare chronographs and chronographs.

‘Universelle’ super complicated pocket watch

   The Marcus Margulies collection includes a world-famous ‘Universelle’ pocket watch with superb functionality, No. 6142. This pocket watch was originally produced by the master watchmaker Louis Elisée Piguet, followed by the production and assembly of complex functional parts by Audemars Piguet, and the finished movement was sent to Union Glashütte in Dresden in 1899. Case assembly, dial signing and sale. This pocket watch was one of the most complicated timepieces at the time, including 1,168 movement components, features including perpetual calendar, Zhongle minute repeater, big self-sounding, small self-sounding, double-second chase, 1/5 second accuracy Timekeeping and reset system, skip seconds, and alarm time. This superbly complex timepiece that brings together fine watchmaking craftsmanship and aesthetic design will become the core exhibit of the Audemars Piguet Museum.
   In 2015, Audemars Piguet made a lot of achievements in the auction market, harvesting a number of rare and complex timepieces. It has extremely important value and significance for the Audemars Piguet museum to display and maintain advanced watchmaking techniques and heritage. In the auction season that began in Geneva in May 2016, Audemars Piguet continues to pay attention to the heritage of antique timepieces.

Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater, 1951, 18K Yellow Gold Case

Audemars Piguet chronograph, rose gold / stainless steel case, 1941

Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch, 1922, Platinum / Gold Case

Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Watch, made in 1957, 18K yellow gold case

   At Christie’s Geneva auction on May 11, 2015, Audemars Piguet successfully auctioned a minute repeater watch (Ref. 5528/1063) made in 1951, using an 18K gold watch with a diameter of 38 mm Shell (Figure 1). According to Audemars Piguet’s historical archives, this watch is made of only one, making it a well-deserved orphan timepiece.
   Since the brand was founded in 1875, the minute repeater function has been one of Audemars Piguet’s most iconic expertise. The minute repeater auction at Ref. 5528/1063 is valued at 150,000 – 250,000 Swiss francs. After many auctions, it was finally sold for 605,000 Swiss francs, setting a record price for Audemars Piguet watches at auction.
   At the Phillips Geneva auction on November 8, 2015, Audemars Piguet successfully acquired a chronograph made in 1941. This orphan watch has an impeccable look, a rose gold and stainless steel case with a champagne dial, period drops and oval chronograph buttons (Figure 2). The auction of this chronograph was valued at 100,000 – 150,000 Swiss francs, attracting many bidders around the world, and it eventually fell to 305,000 Swiss francs.
   In the Sotheby’s New York auction on December 10, 2015, an Audemars Piguet watch that was once owned by the President of the United States was highly sought after at the auction and was eventually sold for Audemars Piguet. This pillow-shaped perpetual calendar pocket watch made in 1922 is made of platinum and gold and was given to the 34th President of the United States Dwight David Eisenhower in 1954 (Figure 3). The pocket watch was valued at $ 20,000-30,000 at auction and eventually sold for $ 45,000.
   In addition to Audemars Piguet’s successful antique timepieces, a number of Audemars Piguet timepieces were purchased by private buyers. The most representative number Ref. 5516 is presented at Christie’s New York auction on December 16, 2015. A total of 9 watches produced in 1957 were the first watches in the history of horology to have a leap year display (Figure 4). The auction value was 150,000-300,000 US dollars, and the drop hammer price was as high as 545,000 US dollars. Auction record of his perpetual calendar watch.
   The spring auction of 2016 has been fully launched, and many well-known auction houses are about to present more collectible Audemars Piguet antique timepieces.